The Road To Milford Sound-115 km
The largest of New Zealands National Parks, Fiordland National Park is a World Heritage site covering 1.2 million ha. From Milford Sound in the north to Preservation Inlet in the south, the park contains 14 fiords, some stretching as far as 40 km inland. The park also contains some of New Zealands deepest lakes, carved out by glacier action, these glaciers also created the almost vertical rock faces from which some of our highest waterfalls in the country plunge.
Thisdrive takes you through the mountains of Fiordland on New Zealand's most spectacular scenic highway from Lake Te Anua through to the sheltered waters of Milford Sound. Experience glacial carved valleys, ancient forests, wild mountain rivers and countless waterfalls on this breathtaking journey into New Zealands most remote and largest National Park. This is a trip that is just as fascinating in the rain as it is on a fine day.
Mirror Lakes
From Te Anau head north 50.2 km on the Te Anau Milford Highway to the Mirror Lakes, signposted on the left. It is best to park at the first available carpark as parking is limited at peak times. A short walk leads to viewing platforms over looking the still waters of the Mirror Lakes that reflect the snow-capped peaks of the Earl Mountains.
Key Summit
Continue north 8.5 km on the Te Anau Milford Highway and SH94 to the start of the Routeburn Track and the walk to Key Summit on the right .
From the Divide on the road to Milford Sound, you will find the start of the Routeburn Track and an excellent walk up to the Key Summit. The track heads uphill through silver beech forest for an hour to the bushline where the turn-off to Key Summit is reached. The Routeburn Track continues downhill from here to Lake Howden, fifteen minutes away, but its only a short, 15 minute climb to the Key Summit where you will find an amazing alpine plateau with numerous small tarns and alpine marshes which are crossed by boardwalks. Set against a backdrop of snow-clad peaks and mountain ranges, the Key Summit is home to ancient, stunted beech trees, thickly clad with mosses and lichens. There are bog cushions, comb sedges and wire rushes growing in the marshes along with alpine sundews, mountain bladderworts and other alpine herbs such as orchids, snowberries and gentians which flower during the summer months. A plane table indicates the main landscape features, with views down the Hollyford Valley and from the end of the ridge you can also look across the Eglinton and Greenstone Valleys. Key Summit is the meeting point of three major river systems, the Hollyford, Greenstone-Clutha and Eglinton-Waiau, all of which have their origins on its flanks. At the end of the Ice Ages, 17,000 years ago, the glaciers that covered the area left huge boulders, known as glacier erratics, stranded along the Key Summit ridgeline where they can still be seen today.
Homer Tunnel
Continue north 15.6 km on the Te Anau Milford Highway and SH94 to the Homer Tunnel.
In the Upper Hollyford Valley beech trees overhang the turbulent Hollyford River. Named after Harry Homer, who discovered the saddle in 1889, the tunnel was begun in 1935 as a relief project for the unemployed, taking 18 years to complete. To start with there were only five men working on the tunnel using picks and wheelbarrows. The men had to live in tents and at least three were killed by avalanches over the years. Fractures in the rock brought snow flows into the tunnel and eventually a powerhouse was built so water could be pumped out of the tunnel. Work was interrupted by the Second World War, although the tunnellers still managed to break through the mountain in 1940. An avalanche destroyed the eastern tunnel portal in 1945 and it was another 10 years before the tunnel was completed in 1954. Today the rough-hewn rock walls of the Homer Tunnel, dripping water and lit only by the head-lights of vehicles passing through, present an eerie sight as you drive downhill towards the western portal. Just past the exit, a 15-minute nature walk climbs from the right side of the road through the forest beneath the towering rock face of the Homer Saddle and the surrounding valley walls. On a rainy day the mountainsides come alive with dozens of waterfalls cascading down the sheer rock faces from the Homer Saddle above.
The Chasm
Continue west 4.9 km on the Milford Sound Highway and SH 94 down the winding road through the Cleddau Valley to the Chasm, signposted to the left.
Feed from the high peaks surrounding the Cleddau Valley, the Cleddau River plunges down through beech forests on its path to Milford Sound and the sea. The continual action of the river, has spun small rounded stones, gradually cutting fluted channels into the rock. The Cleddau River now plunges deep into this rock, disappearing under a natural rock bridge before dropping 22 m through a series of cascades. A 10-minute walking track leads from the road to this impressive Chasm, skirting the upper falls tumbling under the natural rock bridge into the next waterfall.
Tutoko Valley
Continue 8.7 km west down the Cleddau Valley on SH 94 to the Tutoko Bridge. The Tutoko Walking Track is signposted on the right.
Good views of Fiordland's highest mountain, the 2746 m peak of Mt Tutoko, can be obtained from the road bridge, but if you take a short walk into the forest on the Tutoko track, you can experience the beauty of the beech and podocarp forest covered with a luxuriant carpet of mosses and ferns. If you keep following the track for a couple of hours you will eventually reach a riverside clearing and the Tutoko Valley flats, placing you in a unique setting among some of Fiordland's highest peaks. Ahead lies Mt Tutoko with its glacier and tumbling icefall. The peak was first climbed by Samuel Turner, an eccentric Englishman who led several expeditions in the 1920s, modeling them on the classical mountaineering expeditions that were being made in the Himalayas at the time. Complete with guides, porters and carefully selected companions, he finally reached the summit on his sixth attempt.
Milford Sound
Continue west 3.7 km on the Milford Sound Highway and SH 94 to Milford Sound.
Fiordland is one of the highest rainfall areas in the world. When it rains, thousands of waterfalls spring to life from the sheer rock walls of this ancient glacial valley, cascading into the fiords below. Milford Sound is the most visited of the fiords, a scenic wonder dominated by the distinctive shape of Mitre Peak that rises from the sheltered waters of the fiord. These huge valleys were once filled with ice but as the climate warmed towards the end of the last ice age, huge volumes of water were released as the ice melted causing the sea level to rise. Many of the deeply cut glacial valleys were flooded to create the fiords that now make up this magnificent stretch of coastline.
Otago Peninsula
On day two of the Grand Circle Tour after traveling from the highest of our Southern Alps to the wild East Coast we reach Dunedin for a two night stay over. This drive is our excursion for our day in Dunedin
Check out our video for some footage of the start of this great drive
HISTORY OF DUNEDIN
Dunedin was first settled in the early 1800’s as a sealing colony but in 1848 the Lay Association of the Free Church of Scotland founded Dunedin at the head of Otago Harbour with the arrival of the John Wickliffe and the Philip Laing, two ships that were carrying 340 settlers from Scotland. During the 1850s another 12,500 immigrants arrived, most of them Presbyterian Scots who brought their families with them. The name of Dunedin comes from Dùn Èideann, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland.
In 1861 the discovery of gold at Gabriel's Gully, to the southwest, led to a rapid influx of population and saw Dunedin become New Zealand's first city by growth of population in 1865. The new arrivals included many Irish, but also Italians, French, Germans, Jews and Chinese. Dunedin harbour provided a safe haven for a total of 256 ships that arrived that year and gold diggers were most of the new arrivals. Dunedin boomed during the gold rush and Dunedin developed rapidly, adding a distinctive architecture with many fine buildings and stately homes being built with the wealth of central Otago. It also became a seat of higher learning, a position it still holds today.
http://www.newzealand.com/travel/about/dunedin/article/otago-peninsula
Sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by the Otago Peninsula, the harbor was formed from the remnants of an ancient volcano.
The Peninsula with its sunny western slopes enjoys shelter and afternoon sun and has a string of small hamlets along the harbor shore. The rugged Eastern side of the Peninsula faces the full brunt of the Pacific Ocean and Southerly gales. It consists of high cliffs separated by small windswept isolated The Bays Otago Peninsulaand inaccessible beaches.
Our drive around the Otago Peninsula enjoys all of the aspects that these environments provide.
Travelling on the western side of the Peninsula the road clings to the waters edge as it twists and turns through the small hamlets of MacAndrew Bay (1), Broad Bay and Company Bay to eventually arrive at Portobello.
Glenfallock
Just before MacAndrew Bay is the the old kauri homestead of Glenfalloch that dates back to the 1870s. Originally the home of George Gray Russell, a Dunedin businessman who turned the surrounding 40 ha property into a Otago-Glenfalloch.jpgbotanical wonderland. The gardens feature many of the original plantings of European trees from 1872 along with numerous azaleas and rhododendrons, including many unique hybrids and large leafed species which thrive in Dunedin's cool climate. They are best viewed in September and October while in autumn the gardens feature colorful maples and silver birches. Now owned by the Otago Peninsula Trust, the gardens are open to the public.
The Otago University marine research centre (4)
The Otago University has a marine research centre here which is sometimes open to the public (4). The road from here heads away from the coast rejoining the coast at Harrington point, a peacefull haven with spectacular sea views and great fishing. From Harrington Point the road climbs up onto the shoulder of the Peninsula to eventually arrive at the northern tip offthe Peninsula at Taiaroa Heads(6).
A very good information centre and café is located by the carpark and gives access to the Albatross colony and Disappearing Gun.
The Royal Albatross colony (6)
The Royal Albatross colony at Taiaroa Head is the only albatross colony in the southern hemisphere established on a mainland site. It provides a unique opportunity to view these giant birds up close. With a wingspan of more than 3m, they are a spectacular sight soaring over the spectacular headland near the entrance to the Otago Harbour. The birds normally breed in Antarctica, but arrive here in September, mating in October and laying their eggs in November. The eggs are incubated until the chicks start to hatch in January. Between March and September the parents are often away, collecting food for the chicks until they are ready to fly. Guided tours can be arranged to concealed viewing areas looking out across the albatross colony.
Disappearing gun (6)
Near the albatross colony is a restored Armstrong 'disappearing' gun that was installed in 1888 when there were fears of a Russian invasion. This is the only weapon of its type still in working order. The 6-inch gun was capable of firing a l00-pound shell every 60 seconds out to a range of up to 8 km. However, as the gun took a minute to reload it quickly became redundant as the speed of warships had increased dramatically. The tour also leads through some of the restored underground tunnels, magazines and emplacement facilities that were part of the Taiaroa Head defenses.
For those interested in military defenses another labyrinth of tunnels is accessible from the road about 2kms before reaching the car park at the heads. A torch is required as the tunnels have not been restored.
Natures Wonders (6)
www.natureswonders.co.nz
From the carpark you can also visit Natures Wonders that take you down to the rugged East Coast to visit the marine wildlife.
Larnach Castle
From Tiairoa Heads we return to Portobello and take a steep winding road to the Summit road and Larnach Castle. Although not really a castle it is a fine example of Victorian architecture.Construction began in 1871 It was built between 1873 and 1887 as the residence of politician and financier William Larnach, a prominent entrepreneur in colonial New Zealand. Much of the construction was carried out under the guidance of the architect R.A. Lawson, who was also responsible for many other buildings in Dunedin. Construction continued for 15 years on this extraordinary neo-Gothic home. William Larnach spent a fortune on its interior, with 43 rooms, a Georgian-style hanging staircase, elaborately carved ceilings, Italian marble and included a huge ballroom with a sprung floor that was built as a 21st birthday present for Larnach's favourite daughter Kate in 1886. The finished house contained 43 rooms and a ballroom, and required a staff of 46 servants
The building, which Larnach himself simply called "The Camp," did not ensure his happiness. After a series of personal and financial setbacks he committed suicide in New Zealand's Parliament Buildings in October 1898.
The gardens are constantly being developed to their original form, so far, it has taken 40 years of hard work by Margaret Barker who is now the owner. When they bought the Castle, there was little of the garden remaining. Larnach had planted a shelter belt of Cypress for wind protection on all sides, not all this has survived, because Margaret removed some, so the "Barkers" could enjoy the lovely views. The Laburnum Tunnel is one point where there is a spectacular vista through the tunnel and down to the harbour. Spring to summer is the prettiest time to visit when the perennial borders are in full flower, the Azalea's and Rhododendron's are at their best, and many others are in full bloom. Visit in Autumn, and the Scottish Heathers are flowering and follow the Native trailMake sure you look at your grounds map so that you don't miss anything! From Larnach Castle you can take the high road back to Dunedin with some great elevated vistas of Dunedin and the Eastern Beaches or return to the bays road and Back to Dunedin
Heritage architecture
The Otago gold rush left a legacy of ornate Victorian and Edwardian buildings, regarded as the best collection in the Southern Hemisphere. The Flemish Renaissance-styled railway station is one outstanding example.
Possibly the best-known building in the southern half of New Zealand's South Island, Dunedin Railway Station is a jewel in the country's architectural crown. Designed by George Troup, and built in 1906. the station is the fourth building to have served as Dunedin's railway station.
The University of Otago
Founded in 1869, New Zealand’s oldest and largest university gives Dunedin its reputation as a centre of learning. The energy and creativity of the vibrant student culture adds fun to daily life in Dunedin.
From Tiairoa Heads